Amsterdam Fashion Week day 1
Future fashion designers steal the show
The opening of the AFW belonged to the underdog, the no named (not yet), the voice of a new generation of designers. Students from Amsterdam Fashion Institute and ArtEZ Arnhem showed their skill and knowledge about the zeitgeist in some great pieces with a diversity of materials, colors and shapes. It’s all about dreaming and surviving for a better future, with a little bit of romance thrown in.
Students from the Amsterdam Fashion Institute kicked off with their iNDiViDUALS fashion show. The colors were very dark: a lot of black mixed with greens and purples. Long jackets and raincoats dominated the catwalk in different materials like leather en wool. Although I’m a very colorful person and need at least one item in pink within every outfit, I totally got the collection and it’s seriousness. With the amazing long boots it’s almost like preparing for reality: you know it’s going to be unpleasant for a while but you have the energy and longing to make it better. No more sopping around, we have some work to do! The clothes and shoes have a very functional purpose within this message.
Beside the beautiful colors of the clothes and shoes, it were the accessories that made the show even more interesting. The headpieces functioned (I think) like some sort of protection gear: a tool to protect the person when they’re entering the reality of what is our world today. It’s all a new form of functionality: it’s not there to be just pretty (although it was) but to function in a person’s life. The most interesting piece was the almost snake-like accessory around the neck. Not your typical romantic Peter Pan collar; instead a collar that brings the attention to the neck and is quite intimidating. To keep away the enemies maybe? Over all I’m very into the collection: let’s concur the world together!
The collection of the students from Arnhem is all about the love, baby. After all, how can we concur the world without love? It reminds me immediately of the queen of hearts from Alice in Wonderland, mostly because of the colors. Red, white, black and a very light springy green; it almost resembles a kind of irrational dreamy world. The students have made different silhouettes, from long and small to very big and short. Most of the clothes have no prints; just one color for the entire piece. This is a very refreshing and trending development we see a lot in newer collections: out with the busy prints and back to basic.
The basic colors come together in different silhouettes en forms. The most interesting look is the dress/cape piece in white with little red triangles on it. It cuts open above the breasts and closes way down in another triangle form. I think this piece resembles the keywords behind the collection, which are love and aesthetics. I think it’s all about vulnerability: vulnerable in feeling insecure and vulnerable in feeling confident with yourself, your sexuality and the world. The collection shows a journey that brings us the warriors we saw in the iNDiViDUALS show: armed with experience. Knowing what love is and feeling comfortable with love and everything related gives you more strength to face the real world and make it the best we can think of. It is a mix between rational thinking and irrational feelings that makes these collections the perfect balance.
– Gracia Visscher